DIY sliding drawer system for Toyota Landcruiser 100 series

Hi,

Thought I would share my recent project as we get ready for a trip to central Australia (hopefully we will get a chance to visit Arltunga....). I did shop around first and the asking price for a new set-up was anything up to $2700 and that did not include installation!!

So here's my home made solution in build stages:

25mm square tubing for extra strength, note the use of tie down bolts to existing tie-down rings (no holes/screws necessary) which means the whole system can be removed in less than 3 minutes


15mm marine ply which is sturdier than MDF (won't split easily) and waterproof, side access covers where I can store additional items whilst completing the surface area on top for additional side2side storage


marine carpet from Bunnings, 950mm slide rails and lockable drop down T-handles give a more professional appearance (at least I think so ), and a no longer 'reusable' grey shopping bag was stripped of its handles so I could use them to lift the side access covers (see top RHS).

The partition in the centre of the drawer is easily removed to fit longer items including ML and pick etc (drawer sides are rebated) and I decided to use a light coat of grey spray paint on the marine ply as the timber look reminded me of a hearse lol

Drawer height is intentionally aligned so that I can add a foam or air mattress with the 2nd row seats down, fridge/freezer slide top LHS can be removed easily when not required and the dual battery set-up adds peace of mind.

4rd

Nice work!! looks as good as any i've seen, not only have you probobly saved yourself a considerable amount of money but you just cant get the same satisfaction from a bought one, do you mind if I ask what the total cost was?
Regards
Wayne.

Hi Wayne,

Thanks for the comments

Total cost was just under $600 however I could have got it closer to $500 as I purchased more ply than necessary (initially thought I would use timber all the way then thought twice and for another $25 was actually cheaper to go with a metal frame...).

The most expensive items are the slide rails, rated at 125kg (although am told to expect 80kg when extended which is ok as I am not using this as a tradie... plus with the drop down tailgate it is more secure anyhow) cost just under $200 on fleabay. Drop down T-handles about another $45 for the two (keyed alike so I only need to carry one and don't have to guess which one etc). Spray paint from Bunnings was $3.40 a can, tie downs were $6ea x 4 (saw them at Master's next day for $4ea...) and the marine carpet about $35 p/m (2m purchased in total). Hope that helps.

Tony.

4rd, looks like a great job. Wish I had some skills like that - would have cost me a lot less than my Black Widow drawer system !!

Annie

Thanks Annie, saw the Black Widow set-up at TJM in Melbourne whilst having the dual-battery system installed and was very impressed (albeit the price )

4rd they are work of art mate , mine are just old form ply but mate i think i,ll take the hint and build a new set wow





cheers and great job starry

Good job mate !

Can I ask how you manage to fit the top end, when the seats are folded in order to put the mattress on full extend ?

It shows on the second pic the plywood goes all way to the folded seats but then on all the others the plywood stops by the rear seats. (back in place...)


Thanks

Francisco

Thanks Starry.... have only managed to view your post today as we're currently travelling around the red center and have just arrived in to Alice Springs after days without coverage in Kings Canyon. The guy I bought one pair of slides from had mentioned he used MDF which split easily and he had to rebuild. So far the set up has proven very reliable although we've mostly kept to sealed roads . We'll be spending a few days in Arltunga next week and I'll get a chance to use the ML and CC pick that have been neatly tucked away.

Hi Francisco, when I get back home (still a while...), I'll try to post a few pics of the set-up with the 2nd row seats folded down... As yet I have not tried to place a mattress etc however my son said he bought a single bed air mattress from BigW for the miserly sum of $11 which hopefully will fit .

Tony.

Thanks mate, will be waiting. Who knows, maybe by the time you got back, the top end could be the last thing missing to complete.

Enjoy the trip !

Hi Francisco,

Photos as promised with the 2nd row seats folded down, I only need to fold down the 60% split 2nd row seat to fit the mattress which is from Big W ($11.50)....





Regards,
Tony.

Thanks Tony, very well done and also very clever !

I will be following your write up and will post pictures when done!

Hope you enjoyed your trip !

All the best

Francisco Calmon

Hi Tony, great work on the storage system it looks great.

I have been thinking of trying to make one for my Pajero but didn't know where to start.

What did you affix the draw slides onto? Were they long enough to bolt on to the 25m tubing or did you put some of the marine ply along the line of the tubing to fix them to? Regarding the photos of the side flaps it looks like you have extra tubing across to hold them up, or is it the fascia panel only?

Good on you for your initiative. I have quite often priced the commercial storage systems and as you said, they are a bit pricey.
I don't know if I would have the confidence to do it and that's why I still haven't got any yet.

Thanks for posting and great photos. It gives me something to think about and work on.

Cheers bergs

Hi Bergs,

If your Pajero has tie down points (d-type shackles permanently fixed to the floor) it makes for a simpler and cleaner install, otherwise you’ll probably need to install these yourself assuming you want to use swivel bolts like I did for quick installation and removal.

The drawer slides are mounted on the 25mm tubing, I welded a couple of extra struts from top to bottom of frame where I felt the best balance would be and then used short bolts. I had thought of using marine ply but that only adds extra weight which is one thing I wanted to keep to a minimum. In actual fact I even sliced the 25mm tubing used on the outers in half so that the profile was about 12mm x 25mm, again to half the weight (probably overkill).

You are correct, for the top part of the frame I made sure the 25mm tubing extended a little further so that the side flaps could rest on them, simple and easy. I needed to weld a couple of short lengths midway along the top to help distribute the load a little better - the front and back flap supports are just overhang from the frame so no extra welding was required. I then used 20mm sq tubing stops purchased from Bunnings or Masters to give a more professional look and to protect from any burrs.

I just got back having completed 8,000 kms, whilst most of that was on sealed roads, there were many unsealed and corrugated stretches as well as a bit of 4WD when we ventured into some nice country side and gorges in the NT and I was (and still am) very pleased with the result, no rattles or issues. I am not a carpenter or welder by trade (pen pusher is almost an obsolete term so I should say keyboard presser most of the time and the reason I mention this is to give you some additional encouragement to go ahead and try for yourself). I think I covered most of the steps, material, and rough pricing in my earlier posts – let me know if you need more info and will be happy to try and explain/help further if I can (pm is ok, may need to wait as I will be heading OS briefly for work).

Tony.

Thanks Tony,

I should be able to have a go at it now. All I have to do is get all the measurements needed and cut and weld the materials.

Have a good trip and thanks again,

Cheers bergs

Thanks 4rd, I was always thinking of how I could sleep in my paj, but didn't think of just folding down seat backs and having draws creating a flat surface. I can't weld, but my neighbour can. Thankyou for the pics, really helps.

Hi Cams & Bergs, thanks for the comments - do give it a go, I'm sure you'll both be quite pleased with the results and I look forward to seeing some pics as well .

Cams, if you can get your neighbour to weld that will be even better.... the way I weld I'm sure I used up a ton of electricity lol plus the tell tale signs when my wife asked why the lights kept dimming in the house !!

Tony.

Hey Tony -
Thanks for the info
I am goin to put a set of draws in my well body tojo ute so I can get things under wrap and stop crap banging away all mischiviously
when i head bush most week ends.
Great pics as well
regards
oneday69

Hello 4rd , thanks for this post , iam now , buying the 25mm tubes , to start the same project following your steps , i have the same toyota s100 , would you please post the dimension of the tubes just to confirm my work , the outer steel box dimension should be 107 x 108 cm , right ,
anyways thanks again ,

hi azzabi,

The dimension from the back seat to the tailgate will depend on how tall you make the system, this is because the 2nd row seats recline at an angle which means a lower profile (shorter) set-up can get away with a bit more length. In my case the length from back seat to the tailgate is 1030mm (measured at the top), the height of the frame is 280mm, including the marine-ply platform/carpet it is 300mm. Width was based on the maximum size I could fit between the LHS and RHS wheel arch's.

It was a bit of trial and error, and I checked (& recheced) cut lengths prior to welding to ensure they fit. Best wishes with the project also & do share the finished product if you get a chance.

Regards,
Tony.