Humming on the 4500

I’m having a bit of trouble trying to quite my 4500 down. I sent the batter back to mine lab but it came back tested ok I’m using B&Z booster yes I’ve changed the batteries my m8 Chris is stumped also he has had 28 years’ experience in gold detecting and yes we have changed batteries backs and harness we have checked out the wiring to the speakers and all that my sound on my 4500 sound so much deferent to his and our gear is the same gear I’m stumped the sound quality on his its so much quieter and yes I use the same settings . I think the only thing now it to try another named booster any idear??? even his booster seem to do the same humming on my machine is it that my machine is more sensitive than his ??? dose any one here have any ideas when I post on here I have exhausted every avenue and I appreciate you torts and ideas cheers Manny

G'day Manny

Knowing both you and Chris I am sure you are both trying very hard to sort out the problem.

Its a bit difficult from here without hearing the problem in real time, but I wil try.

When you say your machine still makes the same hum when using it on Chris's machine? did you try Chris's machine on your battery and speaker and B&Z system?

If Chris's machine runs ok on your stuff and your machine still makes a hum on Chris's stuff as well as on yours then it may well be a problem with your 4500. Just make certain that every setting and COIL as well are the same in both cases for testing, that way you can elimanate everything right down to the machines themselves.

Both Veronica and I use B&Z boosters on 4500's and I reckon there a great booster so I don't think another brand of booster is the answer.

cheers dave

you shouldn't need a booster as the batterys are amped for speakers on the 45s... i just use a speaker and that's it.
cheers
stoppsy

stoppsy wrote:you shouldn't need a booster as the batterys are amped for speakers on the 45s... i just use a speaker and that's it.
cheers
stoppsy

True, but the B&Z gives you a lot more control over absolute volume without distortion along with the ability to bypass the audio, there is a world of difference once you try it.

As for the OPs problem, do as Dave has suggested and use your battery and booster gear on his 4500 to confirm it's not your gear, this will then help you isolate the problem. Sometimes the mylar cones in the speakers will deteriorate giving an off sounding audio, so its worth checking this on someone else's detector too.

JP

I have done a lot of experimentation using just the stock (boosted), speaker on a 4500 and a 5000,
and then comparing it to using a B&Z booster.

In my opinion there are much better sound adjustments possible
using the detector in conjunction with the B&Z.

Not sure that is a direct answer to your problem
and I hope you find a solution to your specific trouble soon, it sounds like a tough one.

NP Dave thanks for that .say hello to Veronica from the pace family and yes every one there is a world of difference once you try it.using a booster the only thing i haven't done is used his coli i understand its hard to know what i mean without hearing it on my behalf its harder to explain it thanks for you time and patience cheers Manny

Hi,
are you using rechargable batteries by any chance?

no i am not but i like the way you think cheers manny

Hi guys,

Just throwing my nugget into the ring.

I had a similar problem with a coil and I was told by a forum member to look at the pins on both the coil and battery connections.
Using a very small screw driver ( jewelry ) type and slightly close the pins over a little.

Worked for me

Peter
Mariner3800

I wouldn't use rechargeable batteries they are only 1.2volts I use top quality alkaline batteries (1.5 volts) I've had the same batteries for more than a year. I did have a problem with with my B&Z, broken lead internally, no obvious break to be seen so replaced the lead with a longer one, I don't know why B&Z make them so short I think they are too short.

HOBO'S Gold wrote:I wouldn't use rechargeable batteries they are only 1.2volts I use top quality alkaline batteries (1.5 volts) I've had the same batteries for more than a year. I did have a problem with with my B&Z, broken lead internally, no obvious break to be seen so replaced the lead with a longer one, I don't know why B&Z make them so short I think they are too short.

All B&Z boosters built in the past 18 months or so have longer leads along with better quality right angle jacks. Take a look at your serial number (serial number is on the inside of the battery compartment cover), if the prefix is JP and the jack is the old silver style one then send it off to me at PO BOX 553 Clermont QLD 4721 and I'll replace the jack for free.

The leads are always going to be a problem because I'm forced to use a high fidelity audio cable to get quality sound clarity which although quite thick in external dimensions can be damaged if the cable is straight pulled or jerked (This usually happens when full force exertion occurs when digging a hole or when the whole weight of the harness is suspended off the cable during removal or putting on/off the back pack/harness).

It is highly recommend/very important to leave some looseness in the cable at various flex points on the path from the booster mount point down to the battery to allow for this, I usually firmly zip tie the cable at various points along the way leaving plenty of free cable between anchor points, I do not recommend running the cable under the arm pit. If requested I can make the cable as long as the customer wants (Up to 1 metre), if the cable is broken this is not covered by warranty, however a full cable replacement only costs $20 plus postage.

Hope this helps,

JP

G'day JP

It's probably worth a mention that the lead to the battery now comes out the top of the booster instead of the side. This allows the cable to go over the shoulder and down to the battery and zip tied into place like you mention.

This works much better than older model where the cable came from the side and went under the arm pit then down to the battery.

cheers dave

davsgold wrote:G'day JP

It's probably worth a mention that the lead to the battery now comes out the top of the booster instead of the side. This allows the cable to go over the shoulder and down to the battery and zip tied into place like you mention.

This works much better than older model where the cable came from the side and went under the arm pit then down to the battery.

cheers dave

Hi Dave good point and thanks for mentioning it, I would also like to publicly say that Dave and Ronnie were my crash test dummies when I was doing the prototype work on the cable exit mods, in fact from memory I think it was their input that steered me in that direction along with their excellent feedback on the voltage/volume drop when two separate speakers were plugged into the two audio jack exit points.

Credit were credit is due, so thanks guys.

Lastly, Nuggets from Down Under, Laverton Luck Prospecting Supplies, Gold City Detecting, Reeds Prospecting and Finders Keepers always carry large stocks of the B&Z boosters and our dual and single speaker set ups, as a combo you save quite a bit.

JP

for now the boss (wife) has fixed it by changing the booster from the right side of my harness to the left side .IT seem to of fixed it so i thank you all very much for you idea and help it seem that i was hitting the booster while swinging my machine and the booster kept Droping of the harness now its on my left side and it much quieter i think the wire where getting stretched or the plug was slowly getting unplugged thank again everyone for your input PS love the booster Cheers Manny