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Not a bad idea.... I saw a youtube video today of a bloke taking apart a coil to re-glue the wires to the carbon paper (?) to stop false signals when hitting rocks etc.

Would you think this is something a newby could do or are there hidden dangers?

Davsgold,

The Coil Thingy is an elegant solution that is cheap and well-made.
For anyone who does not have a means of stabilizing the coil cable where it connects to the control box,
(one of the biggest sources of falsing on a MineLab),
this is a must-have.

Rob,

I opened a coil earlier this year and repaired it.
It takes some planning and some preparation but once you get going, it's not too hard.
It is however, very important to be clear about what you are doing.

The coil in question works better now than when it was new.
In all honesty, I can bump it now on a rock and it doesn't false.
Before I opened it up, it falsed on almost any obstruction from a small dirt clod on up.

Hi Flak

The video mentioned the wires being loose which I susspect is an issue I have.

It also said to drop a few dabs of some special glue onto the wires to refix them down, but the video shows they're originally taped down.

It just all looked too easy, thats why I was wondering if there were any hidden dangers.

Thank you

Rob,

check your PM's, don't want to hi-jack the thread.

That little white thingy attached to the black cable thingy with a screw, would be better off attached with a butterfly nut for quick changing of coils without a screwdriver don't you think?

The little white thing swings like gate with just enough pressure to keep it stable.
No tools are needed to change the coils.

I just shipped 2 to nero..

Cheep to post to OZ $2.59 first class mail
I got them on ebay just search for "minelab cable thing"
$19.95 + shipping

oh and I'm nvchris aka detectoraid aka Chris Porter

I'll be getting one of them Dave thanks for the post..
Cheers Hoff,

I'm confused about where to get one of these cable things, the ebay site appears to want $13.95 postage yet posts here say $2.95 postage can someone please point to the right one? I will buy one anyway but would rather save a few bucks if possible.

Cheers,
Pete

I think it is a good idea, but I reckon I shall just keep putting two turns of tape around it.
Jig.

Sorry about the overcharge on shipping I'll refund it asap whenever it happens

Seem like ebay is stuck on calculating the weight at 1 pound instead of 2 ounces.
i've tried to revise it twice but i can't tell if it works till someone mashes down on the "buy now" button.

Thanks Chris,
Have ordered one just now, the postage came up at just over $4 US, that's fine.
Cheers,
Pete

It posted today, and I issued a refund
Since then 1 other has posted to OZ with the correct postage charge of $2.59 USD

Thank you all!

The cable thingy seems to be just the latest of a long line of add-ons for minelab detectors. Minelab is no different to any other manufacturer in that respect. Just think of all the incredible add ons that have increased the ability of these detectors to find gold. Not to mention the added comfort which also helps us to find more gold.

Way back in the 1980s a mate and myself began mounting the control boxes of our GTs under the arm rest. It wasn't long and everyone was doing it. We made no money out of it but it was a buzz to see everyone else getting more gold because they could swing longer and easier with less energy required to overcome the inertia of the detector to swing it back and forth. It also meant we didn't have to hip mount the machines and could get away without all the problems of a join in the coil wire etc.

If I remember right I wrote an article once showing how we could modify our detectors to make them easier to swing and so forth. As to the problem of your detector sounding off when you swing it the reason could be that as you bring the detector toward you the cable touches your hip causing movement in the cable if so try this.

When you begin to wind your coil cable around the detector stem first pass the cable under the stem. By doing this you will find after further winding the cable arrives at the top end of the stem on the side away from the operator. (left hander go the opposite way) Insert and tighten your cable then wind a bit of black electrical tape around the stem and cable to hold it tightly in place. Tape the cable in a couple of places down the stem and this will also help stop vibrations travelling back up the coil cable. This option was also in the article I wrote many years ago.

As always someone will think of a better add-on and people will take a look and say "I can make one of those". And they do, often marketing it in competition with the original inventor. Its one thing to make one for yourself but to market it is not doing the right thing but when the invention is never going to make enough money to make it worth while patenting the invention then there is little the original inventor can do. Over the years I have seen this happen many times.

And if you think Minelab should have all these bases covered, just have a look at the automotive industry. No matter how good a car is there are lots of add ons and ways to make it better.

Cheers, Jim

It's the aftermarket that keeps me in the chips.

I'm always working on a new idea.

G'Day

If I was to make something similar, does it have to be plastic?? As it has metal screws I assume not.

$20 seems a a bit much for a 50cent bit of plastic.

Would it be an idea to include a groove for the small Quick Trak Cable??


Waz

I think they're useful. I was always a bit concerned about placing stress on the cable-connection. Not that this part of the detector is too delicate for general use but because no matter how careful you are, it probably doesn't hurt to protect the cable connection from undue stress.

Here's a couple of pictures of the Cable Thing attached to one of our machines.
They are molded so that they fit nicely into one of the two bolt holes on the underside of the control grip. There even appears to be a little channel for the Quick Track button 3-pincable.

Again, it's NOT essential equipment but those wanting a ready-made solution to the problem of potentially stressed cable connections might feel more confident.

Whats the bracket south of the handle for Nero?

detectoraid wrote:Whats the bracket south of the handle for Nero?

It's a (Plastic) Flashlight mount for a P7 torch which is handy in the mines or at dusk. There's a HD camera mount a bit further down - we rarely shaft-mount cameras but if we do it's always a small high-quality camera with a partially plastic body and an extended 800mm lower shaft. There's still a massive 32 inches between the camera-mount (which is almost entirely plastic) and the coil mount on the iso rod so if the camera is small we don't experience any noticeable interference with the coil. Ideally we wouldn't mount either of these for general detecting. Only for certain applications.

nero_design wrote:

detectoraid wrote:Whats the bracket south of the handle for Nero?

It's a (Plastic) Flashlight mount for a P7 torch which is handy in the mines or at dusk. There's a HD camera mount a bit further down - we rarely shaft-mount cameras but if we do it's always a small high-quality camera with a partially plastic body and an extended 800mm lower shaft. There's still a massive 32 inches between the camera-mount (which is almost entirely plastic) and the coil mount on the iso rod so if the camera is small we don't experience any noticeable interference with the coil. Ideally we wouldn't mount either of these for general detecting. Only for certain applications.

Cool Nero .. is that the display model detector of yours or is that the one you take out in the bush and use ?
The reason I'm is asking because it looks as though its never been used , or do you re-wrap your detector with camo tape after each use ?

We have these accessories on all our detectors. We also rewrap the camo tape after they start to get "gummy". Another thing is that we avoid dirtying up our detectors whereas some people have every last nook and cranny on their machine filled with dirt. The better condition your keep your machine in, the higher resale value it will have if you decide to trade up or sell it in future in a private sale. Even our control boxes have a layer of clingwrap over the legs and have two layers of different control box covers over them for protection.

nero_design wrote:We have these accessories on all our detectors. We also rewrap the camo tape after they start to get "gummy". Another thing is that we avoid dirtying up our detectors whereas some people have every last nook and cranny on their machine filled with dirt. The better condition your keep your machine in, the higher resale value it will have if you decide to trade up or sell it in future in a private sale. Even our control boxes have a layer of clingwrap over the legs and have two layers of different control box covers over them for protection.

Not a bad idea protecting it to keep its resale value high . What protection do you use on the handle as i find it impossible to get my handle clean , but yours looks new or have you replaced it?
I also like the idea of a shaft mounted camera although you would think the footage would make you dizzy , side to side so close to the ground would be hard to watch or do you turn the camera around to face yourself so you can keep an eye on your technique later on ?

The handle isn't new although this particular detector has only been out a few times so it's pretty clean. The detectors are also put into bags when in transit so the exposed parts are protected from scratching.

The benefit of a shaft-mount is that it allows for a fixed position for the camera that can be adjusted. Place the detector on the ground and straight away you can swivel the camera anywhere you want. For low-light shots we use the detector in the upright position and it's used the same way a monopod is used.

nero_design wrote:We have these accessories on all our detectors. We also rewrap the camo tape after they start to get "gummy". Another thing is that we avoid dirtying up our detectors whereas some people have every last nook and cranny on their machine filled with dirt. The better condition your keep your machine in, the higher resale value it will have if you decide to trade up or sell it in future in a private sale. Even our control boxes have a layer of clingwrap over the legs and have two layers of different control box covers over them for protection.

how do you go taking the tape off the sharft as the tape will take the paint off the shaft and leave it all sticky and dirt sticking to it. i had my vid cam on my 4000 and when i took the tape off the paint started to come off as well. my 4000 was in great condition and well looked after and i only got what they are selling them for in the shops, the only way you get what they sell them for in the shops is on ebay. once a new detector comes out the price drop on evey detector. you might get a bit better money if traiding for a new one but not much more. they pay $3,200 for a 4500 then sell them for $4,200, this is what they offer the bloke i brought mine off and that's in good condition.
cheers
stoppsy

Hi nero_design
I am new to the forum and just had to join to ask you some questions, curiosty got the better of me. I am really curious why you have a knife on your detector. If I was out detecting and run into you I would be thinking you might be dangerous. Is it dangerous detecting where you go or is just to satisfy insecurities of being in the bush? Have you ever thought it might be enticing problems? Other detectorists and pastoral holders might find it very offensive.
Also, how can you detect with all that gadgetry attached to your detector? Simple is best, I reckon by the time you got it all together and got dressed for detecting it would be time to call it day. I would imagine that those bits'n'pieces would actually be a real hindrance getting caught on branches, twigs etc... Not to mention the extra weight. Each to their own of course but wow!, I have never, ever seen anybody in the goldfields with the gear you have. If you don't mind me saying so.. it all appears a bit unreal, particularly the stunning cleaniness of your equipment, how often do you get out? I am wondering for every half an hour detecting you must spend an hour cleaning your gear, everything is spotless. Over here the red dirt gets in absolutely everything. I guess you could be making a documentry?

It all just seems a bit useles in the art of finding gold.

does that mean if i buy a metal detecter i got to wear all of that gear too
the fellers up here will laugh at me

hell i might just not be able to move


Bob

stoppsy wrote:how do you go taking the tape off the sharft as the tape will take the paint off the shaft and leave it all sticky and dirt sticking to it.

Hi Stoppsy, the tape is a type of medical grade reusable rubberized tape and it only clings to itself. When you unwrap it, the surface beneath it is pristine. The tape can also be removed easily and used to make a splint, a sling or a first-aid pressure bandage if needed. We digitally touched the pictures to reduce some of the dust and dirt and fingerprints that were on the original photographs. This is something we choose to do and it's not necessary but it does protect the shafts from scratching one another when jostling about in the vehicles. The tape also comes from overseas. Just like the Cable Thing, it's a personal decision and is not essential. I think we're the only people using this tape on our detectors at this time.

Honeyant wrote:curiosty got the better of me. I am really curious why you have a knife on your detector.

I'd doubt that, but to quote the local licensing Sergeant at the police station on the subject of Gold Prospecting in NSW: "You'd have to be stupid to head out into the bush without a knife" - and his father was a Gold Prospector. We use our knives for dozens of reasons and applications, all of which were discussed on this forum in detail. It takes less than five minutes to 'kit up' and then tune the detectors. Our cameras are not mounted to the detectors when in use; they're in small leather pouches on our hips. The gear is clean because we keep it clean. I replace the coil tape after each trip. We do not detect every week or even every fortnight. I also replace the protective tape on the shafts every three months or so. We keep our packs VERY light, even with equipment attached. Even a Miner's Pick would get you arrested if you walked into McDonalds or David Jones with one in your hand so knives in the bush are not a concern. If we're on someone's property, they know who we are so there are no surprises or misunderstandings. A knife of any non-prohibited type is classified as "a hand tool" under the lawfully recognized pursuit of Prospecting. We hear plenty of reports of people getting shot at in WA so I think that that might be a bigger problem for you over there than knives. More than one dozen members of this forum have already mentioned that they use a knife in the goldfields. But they are a useful tool and knives are never carried as weapons. If you don't like them, don't bother with them.

Alaskan bob wrote:does that mean if i buy a metal detecter i got to wear all of that gear too

Hello 'Alaskan Bob'. You don't need anything more than your detector and a pick and some water. If you start adding accessories, start with useful ones like a 2-Way Radio and a GPS for example. The GPS can be used to find items you have lost, to mark a major find or to find your way back. A sensible prospector will carry a first aid kit and perhaps fire-making tools like matches or a striker flint. It's entirely up to you how much gear to carry and how far from assistance you might be. Of course, all the Alaskans from my wife's side of the family carry shotguns and large bore handguns when they're on their properties.

Only you can decide what you need to leave behind.

nero_design wrote:
We do not detect every week or even every fortnight.

I heard a radio interview where you said you were a full time prospector so that's why I assumed you were out detecting everyday and couldn't work out why your gear was so immaculate, your first name is Marco, is this right? I also realised that you spend a great deal of time on the forum, when I went looking for the detail discussion of the knives you have many posts at various times during the day so detecting is not really on your thing. Nothing wrong with a day out here and there and that would explain why your gear is immaculate and I can see why you dress up your detector because you seem to dress up your cat as well .

nero_design wrote:
A knife of any non-prohibited type is classified as "a hand tool" under the lawfully recognized pursuit of Prospecting.

I am not saying it is illegal but having it wrapped in camo tape might be classified as a concealed weapon?


Up early to get out detecting but still too wet and the roads remain closed. Usually I can get a few hours in before the heat becomes a bit much. Almost depressing Still the wet is good for the country and it moves dirt, gravel and helps replenish the goldfields in numerous ways.