GP Extreme [standard]

Hi all,
I have been getting heaps of welcomed feedback from Pete about questions he has posted that you have all graciously responded to. Thank you for a great reference point to have, on a soon to be new past time for Pete and I. We will be picking up our GP Extreme in Mid June!
One of the things I’ve been doing is looking at videos on YouTube of the GP extreme, the only issue is that the one we are about to own is not modified and the videos that are on there have the GP Extreme with modification and usually it’s pitted against another unit. I was hoping that someone would be able to send a link to the GP extreme in action without the modification.

Cheers
Ange

Ange. I hope i can help shed some light on the subject.

I owned a modified GP extreme and it did run good, Unfortunately i can't compare this against a standard GP extreme.
No one has changed my opinion or views on modified machines until i spoke to people in the business.

Quite simply, no one will accept a modified GP Extreme as a trade in. The reason being is that they have to offer a warranty on the 2nd hand machine and Minelab won't touch a modified machine if it needs repairs.

After using my machine, i think it would have performed as well if it was not modified.

Without mentioning names, one store trades these machines in for around $1800. Not a bad value considering they won't touch a modified machine.

Leave the machine standard and when it comes time to upgrade you have more options open to you.

I hope i've helped answer your question somewhat.

Great advice thank you goldbait.

G'day ange

Good luck with your GPextreme, I started with a secondhand one and went on from there. They are a good machine as is. The only modification which needs doing is the Green button on the handle for ground balancing. This is not considered a mod by Minelab as I had this mod done to my old GPextreme and it was only recently sent to minelab for a checkup and they accepted it no worries. I know this because my soninlaw owns it now.

The GPextreme also worked very well with a booster and twin speakers instead of the standard headphones.

cheers dave

Dave, who did your green button handle mod? Woody? Mine didn't work property.

But totally agree that you should get external speaker system. I had this on my extreme and it's so much more comfortable than headphones.

Goldbait wrote:Dave, who did your green button handle mod? Woody? Mine didn't work property.

But totally agree that you should get external speaker system. I had this on my extreme and it's so much more comfortable than headphones.

I did the button on the handle myself, bought the parts from Dicksmith for a few dollars and followed the instructions of those that had gone before me, it worked great and still does.

cheers dave

I've done the green button (or in my case, the red button) mod myself and it was quite easy, although it did take a little longer to get it into the exact millimeter that I wanted. I haven't had a chance to test it yet, but will next weekend. Can't think why it wouldn't, I double checked everything with a multimeter and it came up trumps. Fingers crossed though...

davsgold wrote:
The only modification which needs doing is the Green button on the handle for ground balancing. cheers dave

Thanks davsgold, but if I may ask; whats the issue with the standard "green button"? Also, as the unit has a flick switch for "Fixed" and "Tracking" what does pushing the "Green button" actually do?

We only looked over the detector very quickly before Pete had to go back to work, I can't remember exactly if the unit had a green button or not.

Cheers Ange

The green button is used to switch between tracking and fixed ground tracking.

Just saves you getting into awkward positions to flick the switch manually. I never found it a problem.

It's useful as you just push the button with your thumb (basically flicks the switch to tracking so you can ground balance), ground balance, lift your thumb off the button when the machine has ground balanced , then keep going.

comes standard on later models. Great when it works.

ange wrote:

davsgold wrote:
The only modification which needs doing is the Green button on the handle for ground balancing. cheers dave

Thanks davsgold, but if I may ask; whats the issue with the standard "green button"? Also, as the unit has a flick switch for "Fixed" and "Tracking" what does pushing the "Green button" actually do?

We only looked over the detector very quickly before Pete had to go back to work, I can't remember exactly if the unit had a green button or not.

Cheers Ange

G'day ange

The GPextreme never came out with a button (green or otherwise) on the handle, so its an aftermarket mod so to speak. Yes the switch (tracking/fixed) on the front panel will do the same thing but the button on the handle is so much (better) easier to use.

On the newer machines GP3500 and all the GPX machines have the button on the handle as standard, these machines also have the same (tracking/fixed) switch on the front panel.

The GPextreme your looking at may allready have the button on the handle or it may not, no matter either way it will still work.

cheers dave

Goldbait wrote:The green button is used to switch between tracking and fixed ground tracking.

Just saves you getting into awkward positions to flick the switch manually. I never found it a problem.

I'm a bit confused and am wondering which you didn't find a problem; the green button or flicking the switch manually?

davsgold wrote:
On the newer machines GP3500 and all the GPX machines have the button on the handle as standard, these machines also have the same (tracking/fixed) switch on the front panel.

The GPextreme your looking at may allready have the button on the handle or it may not, no matter either way it will still work.

cheers dave

Thanks Dave for the reassurance.

I guess to quote Pete "its like 4WD auto/manual hub locking; of course it would be good not to have to get out of the car to lock in the hubs"

Ange

I didn't find flicking the switch manually a problem.

Thanks Goldbait,
26 days to go before we pick her up! and am very excited!

Hi Ange,

it might be a good idea to send the Extreme to Minelab for check-up. Mine came back with software upgrade !

I guess there are plenty of people who had extremes that didn't have problems but when they were new i had a van at tarnagolla park and i never heard so many complaints from people who had to return them.I suppose by now the bugs should be all ironed out provided they havn't been just shoved in a cupboard by an unhappy owner.

g' Day Rwork

Rwork wrote:I guess there are plenty of people who had extremes that didn't have problems but when they were new i had a van at tarnagolla park and i never heard so many complaints from people who had to return them.I suppose by now the bugs should be all ironed out provided they havn't been just shoved in a cupboard by an unhappy owner.

when we were looking at it, we were told that by looking at the seriel number you can tell that it was made in the later half of the series production. I guess they wouldn't give it a look in for a trade-in if they thought they would have issues with faults etc..

I think the ground in dirt is a good indicator that it hasn't been in the cupboard.

Rtanweb wrote:Hi Ange,

it might be a good idea to send the Extreme to Minelab for check-up. Mine came back with software upgrade !

Hi Rtanweb
When you say software upgrade, this confuses me: do you mean servicing of the painted boards? or is there some other electronic device inside the case that requires software?

The upgrade of the software in the gPextreme basicly got rid of the bugs that were in the eariler serial numbered gpextremes and more or less took them to the level of the gp3000.

Dave there were never any 'software changes' made with the GP extreme's only hardware. During the design phase of the GP extreme a part became unavailable so a replacement part had to be used, the original part chosen caused some GP extreme's to be unstable and noisy which were usually soon recognised by the owner and in the vast majority of cases units returned to Minelab for repair. Over the years most GPs have gone from owner to owner then eventually ending up at Minelab for a check up and as a par for course Minelab will check for this issue, which happened on only a small number of early extremes anyway.

Hope this helps clarify things, the GP extreme was and still is a VERY DEEP punching detector (best of the GP series), the only complaint I had with them was the too fast ground Balance speed which we demonstrated in our first video, otherwise an excellent detector.

JP

The perspective I was coming from when I first posted this thread has now changed as a result of the experienced and knowledgeable input into this thread that you have all provided. Thank you to all who have responded, your posts have certainly given me a comprehensive view of the Standard GP Extreme’s capabilities.

Jonathan Porter wrote:

Hope this helps clarify things, the GP extreme was and still is a VERY DEEP punching detector (best of the GP series),

JP

Good to see someone other than myself (not being biased of course) sees this detector as a better selection than the other GP Series, as I also believe that it punches deeper than the other two, meaning the 3000 and 3500. I still use and enjoy finding gold with my GP Extreme. Why this seems to punch deeper than the others is a mystery to me, is it the circuit board chips, or could it possibly be the settings used by the operator that makes the difference, along with the coil selection, and a FULLY charged battery? And also could it be the detecting method used along with time taken per sweep, together with good hearing? One thing I do know is it is not the headphones, as mine are a crappy set of some generic brand unknown, but I still hear all signals through them. As I have already explained to a couple of forum members, I have found gold in areas THRASHED to death by 4500's much deeper than the unfilled holes left behind by those users. Perhaps someone may be able to shed some light on why this detector punches deeper than the newer ones of today for us mere mortals, please. Cashman.

Hi there Cashman!
Well we have had the Extreme for a little while now, and I have started to use different settings in the feild, changing on the run! We have since got a 14DD pro, and although I have found everything but gold (LOL!) since using some different setting tips - I think by the size and depths of the junk I'm digging, that she's punching about a foot and a half maybe more!

I'd like to be able to confirm this so maybe next time we are close by some test holes we'll give it a go.

Mostly people on the Forum have confirmed that it's a great machine and shouldn't be underestimated!

Hi Ange
Thats about right for a 14dd on a gp machine.What should be remembered is that here in the triangle up to about five or six years ago the big deep gold was found with sd and gp machines coupled with 18 dds.That era has ended with the rise of the gpx machines and the ability to run Mono coils.
It is my belief is that big gold at depth will not be found (in Vic) using the latter.(the results or lack of them seems to confirm this).
Why.I cant put an exact answer on it but it runs along these lines.The sd series had more deep frequencies and less of high.Which gave them( a bias towards deeper targets).They had nowhere near the capabilities of the gp series on smaller gold.The gp series had capabilities of depth but a stronger presence in the mid range to shallow.
The gpx series seems to me to be designed for the mono coil.They do a brilliant job in Vic by using the new timings but this does not let a machine run at its full depth capability.It runs at full depth capability for the timing and coil size but not at full depth capability for normal timings which have even less deep frequencies than its prediscessors.
It could be argued that minelab is actually reprogramming its machines to suit the more plentiful gold.The problem is as I see it that its about time they made the ultimate machine.Combine the small gold capabilities of the gpx timings and add a normal timing then add a deep timing.Trouble is if you do this you can only change the add ons in the next model.Go wireless head phones etc
Cashman the above explains why you have found gold in areas that a 4500s been thru.No one machine will get it all as the variables of machine coil timing and type of soil.
Cheers Dig

I am new to this hobby, and only found 2 nuggets . they both came from an extreme on my first 2 outings.
I love the ease of use of this machine for newbies like me. And it punches far enough, that your back hurts after digging the targets.
I wouldnt normally come into this topic but today after 3 solid days of swinging out of the last 4, i think i am starting to understand its language a little.
And how to fine tune it in areas with hotrocks and black sand wit a DD coil, I still have to learn a lot more to overcome the mono coil noise.
I am having issues on sub gram targets even with the DD coil. If i ground balance it, and set threshold to not pick up the minute iron in the hotrocks i cant get a target signal from anything under .3 of a gram.Any ideas folks on this one?
i have tried to tweak every setting to overcome this issue.
Is there any way to block out the hotrocks, and still pick up very small signals?
Signal set on 90%
vol 90%
fixed /ON after doing a gb.
I have tried E/ normal etc
Tried cancel on. off ( works way better in the off position)
Deep mode on
sensative mode on.
I have tried raising and lowering the volume, signal up to 100 and down to 80 ish.
tried deep, normal, and shallow.
using an 11 inch DD. as the mono wont work there for me its just too hot.
As soon as i can pick up the small targets the small iron stones drive me mad. but if i cancel out the iron stones the nugs wont show up.
I am using lead pieces, from .2 to 1.2 grams. Anything under .5 is a struggle...
cheers in advance for any replies...

maka. gp extreme's love hotrocks. can't really get around that.

i'd be running your volume 100%
sensative
signal 80%
fixed gb
run shallow if your are after the sub gram nuggets. otherwise run the machine on normal

G'day Maka, first things first. Settings for "highly mineralised soils" on the extreme.
The following settings are tried and tested, BUT, you will still get a few false signals from the occasional hot rock and burnt charcoal. (especially charcoal).

Settings : Boost - (N) normal or deep .These settings will also find you sub gram bits of gold at 8-10 inches using a 14" coiltek DD Pro from .1 gram up to larger gold, standing up on end between layers of schist. ( 1/10th of a gram ) I haven't found anything below 1/10th of a gram YET. (Below this I regard as fly sh#t, and not worth the trouble)
: Threshold - Just above the point where it is Audible, but stable, not too High and not too low. No warble effect. If adjustments are made to the volume, then the threshold has to be re-adjusted after. This is important.
: Volume - Max. then back just a fraction. Do threshold after adjusting this.
: Signal - The Signal Pitch can be adjusted to wherever it suits you as it only adjusts the target signal variance to either high or low. Mine is set to a higher pitch ( a bit over 3/4 quarter of a turn) as it tends to pick up signals and hold them better, while some people like it turned up to a full pitch. I have found this setting in mineralised ground to be noisy on full. Then again it also depends on your hearing, as does the Tone control.
: Tone - Adjusts the treble/Bass of the signal. Set to a level that is okay for your ears, wave the wand over a target and adjust.
: Soil - (N) Normal in all areas including high mineralisation. Sensitive for small targets in High mineralised ground for shallow targets. Using sensitive in this type of ground WILL pick up all manner of signals, including many false signals. If you get a faint signal on normal and are not sure, flick the switch to sensitive and wave the coil back over it. It should be louder if it is a target.
: Rx ( Signal recieve switch) - Normal
: Balance - set to tracking, except as above for faint signals, then set to fixed, rebalance and retest signal, also switch Boost to deep to check signal.
: Iron Discriminate - All Metal Mode.

Okay I think that is all the settings, now to tune the beast switch power on , Press the Tune Control button and hold the shaft Horizontally (parallel with the ground) ensuring the coil is standing vertically (like a T that has tipped on its side and is being held 1 metre or 3ft off the ground) Whilst holding it in this position, ever so slowly turn around in a circle and whilst doing this make a note of any interference or noise the detector makes, then turn in the direction from where the loudest/interference is coming from and stand still for a few moments until you hear the pips sound out. If they have already pipped before you have finished turning, repeat the process, only quicker so that you have completed the full circle and turned back toward the interference before they sound off. If this is done correctly each time you go out to detect, this machine will ground balance correctly, and you will hear those ever so quiet signals and will also cut out a lot of those false signals, (but not all).
I also use this machine with a 24" UFO Coiltek and also pick up sub-Grammers down to .3 grams (3/10ths of a gram) and basically use the same settings. Best of luck Maka, cheers, Cashman.

G'Day Cashman. I have just read your post. The part about tuning the GP Extreme interests me. Your method differs from what is described in the Users Manual. I have a GP3000, and I'm a newcomer to detecting. The Tuning method in the User Manuals for both the GP Extreme and the GP3000 are the same. So, as I'm always looking for any tweaks for my machine to give me that extra edge, I'll try your method next time out. Did you discover this by trial and error, or do you have a background in electronics ?
Regards,
panhead

G'day panhead,
I apologise for not answering sooner, but only just got word I had a question posed to me about my tuning method. As I haven't been too well I haven't been on the forum for a while.

Quote: "The part about tuning the GP Extreme interests me. Your method differs from what is described in the Users Manual. I have a GP3000, and I'm a newcomer to detecting. The Tuning method in the User Manuals for both the GP Extreme and the GP3000 are the same. So, as I'm always looking for any tweaks for my machine to give me that extra edge, I'll try your method next time out. Did you discover this by trial and error, or do you have a background in electronics ? Panhead. "

In answer to your query of the above quote, my knowledge has been gained as a mix of other persons' trials and errors as well as my own trials and errors as well as following the directions as explained in the GP-Extreme manual. Lifting the coil horizontally whilst tuning the detector and turning around is explained on page 31 of the manual. As far as settings go, some are settings from the manual, whilst some tweaks are my own. Sorry, I'm not a "sparky" or electrician, but just use common sense, picked up over the years. In case you might be wondering, I also have a GPX-4000, but like the old Extreme better. It must be all the buried charcoal I find. LOL. Cheers, Cashman.

Thanks Cashman. No worries. Hope you are coming good.
Regards,
panhead