Stabalizer

I went out today with a mate detecting and altered my settings on my 5000 after reading that you need stabalizer turned up around 10-12 to aid hearing deep targets.
We burried a test piece 1.3 gms and found the response easily recognised with either settings the only change was the tone of the higher stabalizer setting seemed deeper.
and the lower setting was sharp.
I find my machine more stable with the lower setting but dont want to miss deeper signals,
Can anyone tell me why i should run with the higher stabalizer settings.
cheers
Marty

marty. i have gone the other way. i was used to running the 5000 on 14 gain and 12 stabiliser and having it run a little bit ratty, but since i have been reducing both until i get a smoother threshold. with the smoother threshold i have found good targets on previously worked ground including the 15 g piece at 17". gain was on 8 and threshold on 9 i think. the trick was being able to hear the faint signal because of the smooth threshold. i hope this helps.

Yeah it does help Tricky 1 because i run my gain at 17 and with the stabaliser down low about 3 i can achieve a smooth threshold i sometimes have to lower my gain but never below 15
with a higher stabaliser say 10- 12 my machine is noisier so i have to drop my gain to about 13, so am i better served for deeper targets with a high gain low stabaliser or by a lower gain
high stabaliser if i achieve a smooth threshold both ways.

Try running gain at 14 and stabilizer at 8, the machine generally runs smooth at around this setting and you should get the shallow and deeper targets. Of course settings are dependent on the type of ground you are prospecting, so you will always need to fine tune your machine. If ground is not to hot you can try the gain on 15 or 16. Hope this helps.

If the ground is not hot, then I would suggest changing timings, this is the most important step, to get the right timiing for the gorund you are working.
I would then set the gain to suit the emi conditions etc, take it to a chattery threshold and then back it off slowly until it is almost stable.

Then and only then set your stabiliser, think of you stabliser as the final trim for your threshold, this is the fine tune so to speak.

If you are not getting the most out of your machine by half setting everything, you are probably running it to not full capacity, which in my opinion means there is not much point running around with the best detector available anyway, now is it?

if you want to get the most out of your machine and not miss those deep targets or the shallow small stuff, you need to push the detector to it's limits, knowing your machine will help you achive this and the best way is to get out there and start setting things, know what you are setting and why you are setting.

It would be the same as fitting a 4 barrell carby on the big block chev and then wiring up 2 barrells so they are not in use and then asking why you are not getting the full performance that you should.

Cheers

Goldstalkergpx,

well said.

my comment has probably been said before and more clearly,
but generally, there seem to be two methods of running the gpx's;

one is that you crank the settings up into the 'ratty' or 'hot' range
and by doing that, live with the chatter and pick out the target signals through it.
Many long-time, experienced hunters do this with great success.
I sometimes wonder if this method comes from years of running earlier M/L's
where they just were ratty even when set up well,
so the operator had to learn to be able to pick out the signal through the chatter.

The other more common way, is to concentrate on smoothing out the threshold.

Both methods rely on a balance of Motion, Target Signal, Gain, and Stabilizer.
Both methods only work to the optimum if you first select the Soil Timing
on the front end cap that best fits the ground you are working on,
with Normal generally considered the optimum starting point.

fwiw